“The road by the sea has a way of slowing time. Each stop a story, each mile a memory...”
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| (Surau Langgar Rindu at Rhu Tapai, Terengganu) |
Day 03: 28 April 2026 (Tuesday)
Route: Kuala Terengganu - Kota Bharu
Hotel: Tune Hotel, Kota Bharu
We packed our bags for an early check-out, the morning air still soft with the calm of the coast. Today’s journey would take us north to Kota Bharu, following the scenic coastal road. One we have come to love for its quiet charm and unexpected treasures. Along the way, we planned to visit old mosques and a few places that hold stories of their own.
After a hearty breakfast at the food court beside Pantai Batu Buruk, we began our drive, crossing the elegant Terengganu Drawbridge. The road opened up towards Rhu Tapai, where our first stop awaited, a place both humble and extraordinary.
Tucked away in Kampung Rhu Tapai, Surau Langgar Rindu is unlike any surau we have seen before. Built almost entirely from reclaimed wood, cengal, tembusu, and even driftwood. This prayer house carries with it a quiet soul. Some of its timber is said to be over 300 years old, each piece carefully gathered and shaped by its builder, Abdul Karim Embong.
There is a stillness here that invites reflection. The craftsmanship is intricate, yet unpretentious. Every beam and carving telling a story of patience, devotion, and love for tradition.
After refuelling in Merang, we made a familiar detour, one we never skip. Our favourite stop at Mr Celup Tepung Station (MCTS) where the sea breeze greeted us once again. This place is always lively, known for its wide array of freshly fried seafood, celup tepung done just right. It has become our favourite lunch stop along this route, where simple food meets a beautiful view.
Our next stop brought us into the heart of history. The echoes of the past in Besut where the Masjid Lama Kampung Raja stands as a quiet witness to time. Built in 1895 by Tengku Che Haji bin Raja Hitam, it once served as the main mosque before the construction of Masjid Nasiruddin Shah.
Nearby lies the royal mausoleum, where former rulers of Besut rest, adding a sense of reverence to the surroundings. Just beside it, we explored what remains of Istana Tengku Anjang. Only the wooden skeletal structure endures, elevated on stilts in traditional Malay style. Walking through its quiet, weathered frame felt both fascinating and slightly eerie, like stepping into a forgotten chapter of history.
Not far from there, we visited Desa Ukiran Kayu Kota Putera, a vibrant centre dedicated to the art of Malay wood carving. The village is home to several traditional buildings - Rumah Limas Bungkus, Rumah Tele, and Rumah Potong Belanda, each serving as workshops, galleries, and classrooms. Here, the legacy of woodcraft continues through skilled hands and patient teaching. It was heartening to see tradition not just preserved, but lived.
As we continued our journey towards Kota Bharu, we made a quick stop to recce Bayu Melawi Chalet, the venue for tomorrow’s reunion. A quiet anticipation began to build.
Before reaching the city, we performed our jamak prayers at Masjid Al-Naim in Jelawat, grateful for a moment of pause after a day on the road.
After checking into our hotel and resting briefly, we drove to Kampung Guchil. There, I had the chance to visit my brother and his wife, someone I had not seen in quite a long time. It was a simple, heartfelt reunion, made more meaningful by the comfort of seeing them both in good health. We shared tea, stories, and laughter, the kind that needs no effort.
Dinner was modest, beef soup and tomyam at a local eatery. By the end of the day, we settled in for the night with a quiet sense of gratitude.
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