“In every quiet mosque, history whispers and the heart listens...”
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| (Galeri Ilmu Tok Ku Tuan Besar, Kuala Terengganu) |
Day 02: 27 April 2026 (Monday)
Route: Around Kuala Terengganu
Hotel: Sumai Hotel Apartment, Kuala Terengganu We began the morning unhurried, letting the day unfold gently before us. Kuala Terengganu would be our base, our journey today was about tracing faith, history, and the quiet beauty of old mosques scattered across the state.
Our first stop was Masjid Raja Bukit Besar built in 1919. The old mosque was demolished and a new mosque was built in 2015 and renamed as Masjid Sultan Muhammad. The new mosque carries a calm dignity, with its layered rooflines and traditional Malay architectural elements reflecting a time when design was shaped by both function and faith.
Breakfast followed at the ever-popular Nasi Dagang Atas Tol, simple, familiar, and comforting.
From there, we continued to Masjid Hiliran, one of the oldest mosques in the state, known for its distinctive multi-tiered roof and strong Javanese influences. It was declared a National Heritage Site in 2019. While the exact date of its original wooden construction is unknown, it is believed to be over 200 years old. It is believed to be the first mosque in Terengganu built with two floors. A highlight of the site is the Telaga Mandi Gajah Putih (White Elephant Bathing Well) built during the reign of Sultan Zainal Abidin IIl. A quiet reminder of the cultural exchanges that once shaped this region.
We then visited Masjid Kampung Bukit Bayas, a historic mosque closely linked to early Islamic scholars in Terengganu. It is notable for its long history, dating back over 150 years, and its preservation of traditional Malay architectural elements. Built around 1873, it is one of the older mosques in the region. It is also associated with the legacy of Syeikh Abdul Kadir Bukit Bayas, a prominent religious scholar. It is famous for its intricate wood carvings on the mimbar, which showcase traditional Malay motifs like awan larat, floral patterns, and vines. The mosque understated structure speaks more through its legacy than its form. A place where knowledge and devotion once flourished side by side.
Our journey continued to Masjid Kampung Mesah Baru, a modest village mosque that reflects the enduring role of faith within close-knit rural communities, simple, grounded, and quietly steadfast. This is a new mosque believed to have been built over the century old original mosque. While the exact date is not precisely recorded, which is common for older community built mosques that may have evolved from smaller suraus over time.
Further inland, we arrived at Masjid Kampung Dusun, one of the most remarkable stops of the day. It is one of the oldest mosques in Terengganu, with records indicating it was built around 1908. Built entirely from cengal wood without the use of nails, the mosque stands as a testament to traditional craftsmanship. Elevated on stilts and adorned with delicate carvings, it reflects the elegance of Malay architecture. Known locally as Masjid Raja, it is also believed to have once served as a refuge for Sultan Sulaiman during the Japanese occupation. Even today, the presence of the old beduk on its veranda quietly preserves echoes of the past.
We made a brief stop at Empangan Sultan Mahmud. The scale of the dam was impressive, though ongoing construction limited what we could explore. Still, the vastness of Tasik Kenyir stretched beyond, hinting at its natural grandeur.
On the return route, we visited Masjid Beladau Kolam, a peaceful mosque set within a quiet village landscape, another reminder of how deeply mosques are woven into daily life here. It is recognized as one of the oldest and earliest religious education centers in Terengganu. Historically, it was the site of the second Tok Pulau Manis (Sheikh Abdul Malek) religious school. It was originally built as a wooden mosque by villagers. The current permanent concrete building was constructed in 1996. The mosque features a single dome and only one minaret..
One of the most meaningful visits was to Masjid Pulau Manis. This mosque traces its origins to the 17th century, built on the site of a religious school founded by the esteemed scholar Tok Pulau Manis, the legendary Malay scholar Syeikh Abdul Malik bin Abdullah, Once a renowned centre of Islamic learning, it attracted students from across the Malay world. Though the structure has been renovated over time, its spiritual legacy remains strong especially with the nearby resting place of Tok Pulau Manis, still visited and remembered by many.
On our way back, we stopped at Masjid Tok Ku Tuan Besar for jamak prayers. One of the oldest mosques in Terengganu, it is closely associated with Tok Ku Tuan Besar, a respected scholar whose real name was Sayyid Abdul Rahman Al-Idrus, who played a significant role in spreading Islamic teachings in the region. Traditionally designed with a multi-tiered roof and timber elements, the mosque reflects the classic Nusantara style. More than a place of worship, it once served as a centre of learning and community life, a role that still lingers in its quiet presence. The tomb of Tok Ku Tuan Besar is located adjacent to the mosque.
Before returning to the hotel, we made a quick detour to Pasar Payang. A simple lunch at the food court, followed by a small purchase of kuih bahulu and bottles of honey, added a touch of local flavour to the day.
Back at the hotel, we rested well, grateful for the slower pace, the stories uncovered, and the quiet beauty of places that continue to stand, not just as buildings, but as keepers of time. Each mosque carried its own story of faith, resilience, and community.